An ocean view and trendy blue-tiled sushi bar enhance this large dining room's appeal.

Theme image courtesy of flickr creative commons

A meal at Atlas does not kick off with a spiel from the waiter about how each dish will come out of the kitchen when it’s ready and is meant to be shared. Nor is there an option of a five-, eight- or 14-course “chef’s tasting menu” that begins with an edible doodad served in a Chinese soup spoon. Instead, you will be greeted with a classic a la carte menu — appetizer, main, dessert — offering no embellishment beyond an irresistible bread service. (Another gougere? Oh, why not?) 

The most daring options during a recent meal brought to mind staples at classic French restaurants: snails, veal sweetbreads, beef tartare, roasted bone marrow with toast, blood sausage.